After a four-and-a-half-year collaboration across 11 European countries, scientists at Finland’s VTT Technical Research Centre and their EU partners have unveiled a new lineup of plant-based ingredients poised to revolutionize sustainable cosmetics. The InnCoCells project, part of the EU’s Horizon 2020 programme, screened over 100 extracts for their impact on 20 skin-related biomarkers linked to inflammation and ageing.
From this pool, around 25 extracts showed strong potential. Unlike conventional studies that isolate single compounds, InnCoCells applied a systematic approach to cultivate and analyze complex plant cultures in greenhouses, bioreactors and even agricultural side-streams—ensuring both efficacy and eco-responsibility.
Key standouts include cultures of Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvygrass), which delivered powerful anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing and antimicrobial effects; Capsicum chinense cell cultures that combat harmful bacteria without irritating skin; and hairy root extracts of Ocimum basilicum (basil) that help preserve hydration while countering signs of ageing.
“These findings highlight how nature and science can come together to create the next generation of cosmetic ingredients,” said Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey, coordinator of the InnCoCells project at VTT. The team is building a scalable bioeconomy pipeline that pairs proven skin benefits with sustainable production methods.
The €7.9 million ($9.2 million) project is already moving towards commercialization, as partners explore new business models and industry collaborations. For young innovators, beauty enthusiasts and eco-conscious consumers alike, this research signals a greener future for skincare.
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Researchers find new plant-based ingredients for sustainable cosmetics
cgtn.com
