In the heart of Baghdad’s historic Mutanabbi Street, Shabandar Café stands as a testament to Iraq’s enduring cultural spirit. Owned by 85-year-old Mohamad al-Khashali for six decades, this iconic café has weathered wars, political upheaval, and unimaginable loss while preserving its role as a gathering place for artists, writers, and everyday citizens.
A Living Archive of Iraqi History
The café’s walls – adorned with photographs dating to 1963 – serve as a visual timeline of Baghdad’s intellectual life. Al-Khashali describes the space as a museum of our collective memory
, where generations have debated politics, shared poetry, and found community over steaming glasses of chai.
Tragedy and Renewal
The 2007 car bombing that devastated Mutanabbi Street killed four of al-Khashali’s sons and reduced the café to rubble. I lost my family, but not my purpose,
he says. After years of reconstruction, the revived café now bears memorial plaques honoring bombing victims while continuing its cultural mission. Despite offers to modernize, al-Khashali insists on preserving the establishment’s traditional character.
Cultural Crossroads for New Generations
Today, Shabandar remains Baghdad’s intellectual hub, attracting students documenting oral histories and young entrepreneurs brainstorming startups. As one regular patron notes: This isn’t just a café – it’s where Iraq’s past and future meet.
Reference(s):
cgtn.com
